Almost every capital or urban city has monuments that they are known for such as the Paris with the Eiffel Tower, New York with the Empire State, Rome with its Colosseum. However, Madrid is not known as anything specific, it has many fascinating buildings with precious artwork carrying a big history behind it such as the Museo Nacional del Prado with its famous painting Las Meninas from 1656 by Diego Velazquez or the Guernica from 1937 by Pablo Picasso in the Reina Sofía Museum. El Retiro park is not like any other I’ve seen before in my life. I had the prejudice that it is like the central park in New York, however I was proved wrong.With a beautiful so called Feria de Libros Cuesta de Moyano, on entrance consists of multiple book booths next to each other walking up the park, with books looking out of every corner almost as if you were to take one book out of the stand, they would all fall. It is very welcoming, and I can imagine myself looking through the books and finding one from over hundreds of years. Another impressive part of the park was The Bosque de Recuerdo, a beautiful monument to the victims of the bombing in March 2004 with 192 olive and cypress trees going around in circles. It was initially 191 victims during the attack however the additional one was put for a police officer that also died because of the bombing. My favorite detail of the park is the Palacio de Cristal which is one of the two exhibitions that belong to the Museo de Reina Sofía, it is a crystal palace made of glass. The interesting part about this palace is the interior, consisting with a temporary exhibition by Carlos Bunga who filled the castle with only cardboard standing walls up to the roof. The cardboard symbolizes life and represents how unstable home can be and then it was never stable or consistent from the architect’s childhood experience. The palace was designed by the Spanish Architect Ricardo Velázquez Bosco and his purpose was to produce an impression of phantasy and unreal spaces to the viewers. Each area of the park is unique on its own and tells a story about Spain and its historical background. Some areas consist of monuments, other are remains from the 19th century and many are now museums. It is a place that must be experienced as it brings you a certain sense of appreciation of nature and life.
Toledo as Text
“A city of giants”
By Melis E. Gercek of FIU at Toledo, España
Just as we arrived at the train station of Toledo, I noticed fascinating Islamic architecture such the roof characterized by geometric and round up tiles with patters from the Moors, the Islamic domain ruling over Spain for several hundreds of years. This town gave me the impression of being like a huge family, for it to have only 10000 locals in town it gave me the impression that everyone knows each other, a wonderful character especially when it comes to special events such as holidays. Luckily, I was able to be part of seeing how everyone helps in preparing for the upcoming Corpus Christi, an important holiday for the Roman Catholics represented in a parade that brings about 200kg of gold and silver out to the streets just for this occasion. Giant figures around buildings that are being prepared to walk the parade almost looking like guardians of the city. Another fascinating part of this city is the architecture as it has been influenced by the Moors back when they were ruling and before the Christians have taken over but also Jewish remains such as the Juderia de Toledo (Jewish section) with a beautiful synagogue that is only a few of the remaining, consisting of Islamic architecture. Moorish buildings would look plain from the outside such as the Alhambra or the Mosque in Cordoba, but the inside would be fascinating architecture. Reason for this strategy of art was that the Moors as they were Muslims, following the saying of the Quran: it was said that showing off is wrong and your wealth should not be shown to everyone as the poorer would feel less of themselves. The synagogue was built by the Moors for the Jews and was never a mosque but looked similar inside. In the interior, everything was painted with attractive colors such as red but then whitewashed over the original with a plaster since it would protect it from disease, it serves a purpose of disinfection as well as protect the heat from the sun.
From El Grecos painting called The Burial of the Count of Orgaz with hidden features such as a reflection on the armor to the beautiful cathedral with everything in stain glass, Baroque art and Gothic cathedral with Renaissance features as it openly represents sexuality, up to Islamic art, churches, synagogues and thus representing all monotheistic religions at once, this city gave me a feeling of harmony
I might not be an American citizen, nor raised in America but I can certainly relate to Spain in many aspects as I am a Muslim, born in Germany, raised by Turkish parents and now live in Miami. When it comes to identity and who I belong to, until this very day I am very uncertain about belonging. In Germany I am the Turkish/American, in Turkey the German/American and in America I have been called exotic or a mix or simply European. I would have thought going to Spain would be like Germany, but this journey has proven me otherwise. I had the opportunity to see Europe from a different perspective as well as Islam.
Madrid
Starting in Madrid, besides the beautiful museums we got to see with famous paintings such as the Guernica by Picasso in the Museo Reina Sofia or Las Meninas by Diego Velázquez in the Museo del Prado, we also had the opportunity to see a beautiful park called El Retiro with many little details that make this park unique; a memorial with pine trees of the 191 who died in the terror attack including one for the police that sacrificed themselves, statue of a fallen angel called Fuente del Ángel Caído by Ricardo Bellver, Cuesta de Moyano book fair, an incredible Palacio de Cristal with different exhibitions of contemporary art, and a beautiful lake with boats.
In Madrid I focused on the neighborhood Sol, the heart of this city but not geographically, this area is popular for its stores and plaza mayor, a town square in which there used to be bull fights and executions. La Mallorquina, the most popular café in Sol founded in 1894 is a must go, from pastries to any type of coffee, and a known drink Café Granizado which is a coffee in slush ice texture. I could imagine myself sitting upstairs every morning, enjoying the view of Sol, and watching locals, tourists, gypsies walk by.
Sol is the hot spot for tourists, this is very recognizable by the many souvenirs stands offering bus tours through Madrid, lots of key chains and bracelets of Spain, Madrid or even their soccer team and many more touristic features such as Starbucks in every street you turn or even Taco Bell which are two major American companies that attracts tourists as it delivers them a sense of familiarity. There is a psychological aspect behind putting a familiar company in touristic areas, if an American visits a foreign city where everything around them is new and unknown, in a good way. If they see a familiar store or company like mentioned above, the chances of them going to a Starbucks for a drink they would back at home are very likely as I can speak for myself included. Sometimes next to all the new and amazing food we get to try, at the end you pick what is familiar to the eye.
Photos taken by Melis E. Gercek || CC by 4.0
I had the opportunity to watch a bull fight in Madrid in the famous Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas, it was an amazing experience since it was a big cultural shock for me seeing Spaniards cheering up on the bull fighter provoking the bull and stabbing into the animal. If this would exist in America or Germany, it would be seen as morally wrong in many aspects, as it is a torture for the animal and not easy to watch for many people. The Spanish are very proud of this tradition, and I truly respect that.
Photos taken by Melis E. Gercek || CC by 4.0
My memory of Madrid is a comparison to New York City, I have lived in Brooklyn for a year and fell in love with the city, it was a hectic life, a city that never sleeps and full of different people, however it is very similar to Madrid, not culturally but the concept of the metro system, the structure of the city, a hot spot for tourists, a park with verities and very meaningful monuments as well as museums. A big aspect that Madrid has but New York never will is the Art and history, Guernica and Las Meninas, El Greco, Goya and Velázquez.
Islam
I have come to realize that even if Spain is in Europe, considering my background and the countries I have been to, it reminded me the most of Turkey, not just the streets and houses but also the people, the hills, the food and most importantly their connection to Islam. Spain’s history has influenced this country even if many monuments have tried to cover it with Christianity, it should be appreciated that the Moors shaped Spain as it was under Muslim rule for 800 years especially in the South, Andalusia, and made it to the country it is today. From architecture to culture and even traditions, Spain is a perfect example of a country that once had all monotheistic religions live in peace together. The media, and the way history is taught nowadays leaves a negative perspective towards Muslims in many people as they are represented as terrorists, however this trip has made it possible for all non-Muslims to have a positive outcome. The cities that made me realize this the most were Sevilla, Cordoba, and Granada. Three cities in Andalusia that kept the most of Islam as much as possible and has its most Arabic residents compared to more northern cities in Spain. In Cordoba we got to see the upmost beautiful Mosque that has been converted into a Church but is known as the great mosque in Cordoba and the magnet for tourists. When I first entered the Mosque – Cathedral of Córdoba, I had difficulties understanding how it became a Church as they kept the remaining structure and art of the former Mosque. I felt very welcomed and forgot that we are in Spain for a short moment, this place has touched my heart in positive and negative ways. I was so proud to know how tourists come to see a Mosque, how Arabic literature was kept, and it is appreciated to once have been a mosque, however I was very hurt and disappointed to see that Christianity was represented as above Islam by rebuilding an Altar in the middle of the mosque with a higher ceiling and in representation of power and victory, under stable but very hurtful. I observed my classmates a lot during our visits in the Islamic influenced parts of this trip and what I have realized is that they got lucky. They were able to see my religion from a different angle and I am very convinced that any fear towards it has been resolved thanks to this trip, a fear that only developed from media. After visiting the great Mosque and Alhambra, they approached me and my other two Muslims classmates asking more question about our religion and showing genuine interest.
Photos taken by Melis E. Gercek || CC by 4.0
Concluding Impression
Arriving in Barcelona was like arriving in a new country, apart from Spain since it is Cataluña. Besides Barcelona being Catalan, it resembles Miami a lot, the beach, the people and the art by Antoni Gaudi, an artist who was influenced by Islamic Architecture and the so called Mudejar art, however that is not really made known. Barcelona has a beautiful beach, an amazing night life and massive tourism. This city was Miami with a touch of Gaudi.
The cities we have visited were all unique in their own way, each city widened my perspective of Spain, I got closer to my religion, and I was able to feel a part of something a certain sense of belonging. The most beautiful part of this program were the people and the experiences we share, nothing can take this away from us. The hikes in El Escorial, Toledo and Montserrat will be my forever favorite memories, I have never felt more free in my life, the urge of wanting to reach to the top of the mountain, the struggles in between due to dehydration, incline or simply the heat and then the final, feeling of success and being proud of myself for making it every time and striving for even more, always looking for more places to climb on top. I have cried, laughed, and loved a lot during this trip, and I am so content that nothing and no one can take these memories and feelings away from me. I am proud of myself and lucky for this experience.
Photos taken by Melis E. Gercek || CC by 4.0
Works Cited
All information from walking lectures by John W. Bailly and baillylectures.com
Ida: The Islamic influence on Spain || Islamic Art in Spain
by Melis Gercek of FIU
Photograph taken by Luna|| CC by 4.0
Melis Eda Gercek is a senior pursuing a Bachelor of Arts in Psychology at Florida International University. Her interest in mental health and the well-being of humans inspires her to become a clinical psychologist. After moving to Miami from Germany, Melis has been introduced to an entire new culture, both Hispanic and American. Her primary hobbies include swimming as she is a lifeguard, here at FIU, and riding her motorcycle. Melis loves traveling, she will be a part of España Study Abroad 2022 and is looking forward to seeing historical and cultural beauty.
Introduction
Great Mosque of Cordoba – retrieved from spanishculture.com
For almost 800 years Spain was mainly under Muslim rule due to the invasion of Muslims forces in 711 which led to the conquest of the Iberian Peninsula. The most dominant muslim land in Spain was Andalusia which has today the most remains of Islamic art and architectures. The southern part of Spain known as Andalusia is known as the most historical region of Spain for being under the Moorish rule for eight centuries and carrying its Islamic architecture (also known as Moorish architecture) such as the Alcázar castle in Seville, the Great Mosque of Cordoba known as Mezquita Catedral, Madinat al – Zahra, Mosque of Cristo de la Luz and Granada’s Alhambra palace.
The Moorish Empire
The Moors began to invade the Iberian Peninsula including North Africa and Spain an called it Al-Andalus which we can now recognize in Andalusia. Andalusia consists of the cities Cordoba, Sevilla and Granada which contains of many Islamic architecture that evolved from this empire. They brought a climate of religious tolerance, art, culture and landscaping. Granada was the capital of the Moorish Nazrid dynasty from 1232 – 1492. The city itself went through scientific discovery which led to advances in astronomy and medicine as well as the Arabic numeric system, which we use present day, all arrived to Europe through Spain. Islamic art and architecture consisted of the main elements of Geometry, Botany (nature such as gardens) and Calligraphy which was evident in poetry. What was so impressive about the art of Moorish civilization was their ability to blend into everything since there were all monotheistic religions present: Christianity and Judaism and Islam. With all these people present ideas flourished.
Umayyad Hispania in 719 AD retrieved from Wikipedia
Mudejar Art and Architecture
This art style resulted from the blend of all monotheistic religions and their culture by living together and emerging into its own architectural style. It was shaped and influenced mostly by the Muslim style due to the Moorish Empire. This style was born in Toledo and adapted throughout “Spain” as we know it now. They are characterized by square towers, and red ceramic bricks as well as Gothic like and Romanesque trends. Where East meets West.
Mudejar Art retrieved from culture trip
Alcazar Castle in Seville
This royal palace is one of the oldest ones in Europe and goes back to the 11th century and is located in Seville which was built under Moorish rulers. This palace represents Mudejar art as its most. It was built for Christian King Peter of Castile. It is very known for its tiles and walls as well as very decorative ceilings combining arabesque features as well as calligraphy and geometric patterns that were Islamic characteristics. It was claimed by the Kings of Spain in the 13th century and thus transitioned to a Gothic, Renaissance and Romanesque design. These styles blended in and thus were characterized as Mudejar art.
Alacazar Castle in Seville
Alhambra Palace
Alhambra Palace retrieved from Audley travel
Granada’s impressive architecture by its popular Islamic palace built in the 14th and 15th century. The Alhambra went through four different periods, the architecture was influenced by the rulers in each period and each detail was created by the respective ruler. The founder of Alhambra Muhammad I had a big influence on the Darro river flow to the palace. Features such as the Palace of Lions, Riyad garden and the main entrance and certain towers were all built by rulers such as Muhammad V and Yusuf I. What is very known about this architecture is its interior design, the purpose of the building was to open up and impress the visitors when entering and seeing all details and arts when entered. Not to forget the calligraphic cravings of poems. It might look like a simple facade from the outside but once entered the remarkable architecture and its Islamic style makes it a unique palace. Alhambra consists of many rooms however the most important to be mentioned are the Sala de la Barca which was the bedroom for the Sultans characterized by wooden ceilings and shape of a boat. The hall of the ambassadors right next to the myrtle court with a craving of a poem and a verse from the Quran, as well as its symbol of the seven heavens of Paradise which are all mentioned in the Quran. The Court of. Lions as it has 12 marble lions placed in there and water flows from rooms surrounded. The beautiful gardens of Alhambra and their Mirador with an outstanding view.
Mezquita Catedral
Located in Cordoba, it is an architecture shared between Islam and Christianity. It was a construction from the early beginning of Islamic rule and expanded into a greater mosque under the rule of Abd ar-Rahman I, II and III. A minaret was added later which was a major detail of the mosque and placed in the center of the courtyard. Later on in the 10th century, Al-Hakam II improved the mosque even more by adding a mihrab with heptagonal shape and marble and writings of the Quran surrounded. He expanded the prayer hall. The mosque kept expanding with each ruler including Hisham II and thus became the third biggest Mosque that exists in the World. The Christians claimed the mosque in 1236 and the structure became a church. It is now known as a cathedral but kept its interior design of a Mosque.
“You have built here what you might have built anywhere; to do so, you have destroyed what was unique in the world” – King Carlos I
La Mezquita Catedral de Cordoba retrieved from The Review of Religions
Melis Eda Gercek is a senior pursuing a Bachelor of Arts in Psychology at Florida International University. Her interest in mental health and the well-being of humans inspires her to become a clinical psychologist. After moving to Miami from Germany, Melis has been introduced to an entire new culture, both Hispanic and American. Her primary hobbies include swimming as she is a lifeguard, here at FIU, and riding her motorcycle. Melis loves traveling, she will be a part of España Study Abroad 2022 and is looking forward to seeing historical and cultural beauty.
Deering Estate as Text
“A hidden gem”
By Melis E. Gercek of FIU at The Deering Estate on January 28th, 2022
Deering Estate || All photos taken by Melis Gercek (CC by 4.0)
I expected this trip to be a visit in a park with protected nature such as plants and trees of different species. However, it is much more than just a forest and nature, it carries an important part of the history of Miami even before it was America. Miami is a very diverse city, and most of the population are not originally from here, it is normal to meet people from foreign countries. We tend to underestimate the importance of this city’s history and how until this very day it is still a big part of us.
When I heard Deering Estate the first time, I knew it had some background with Charles Deering but was not aware of the entire history of this place. It used to be a hotel at one of the main roads of Miami named Old Cutler Rd, which is nothing compared to the current Old Cutler, or rather “New Cutler Rd”. The Mediterranean Revival Stone House is now 100 years old and still beautiful from the inside and outside, the building resembles European architecture because of Deering’s inspiration and desire of Barcelona in Sitges, Spain. It was impressive to know that the workers who built the house were Bahamians and even craved Bahamian Art on the medallion ceiling, piles and many more details. Not only the Stone House but also the Richmond Cottage which ended up being used as a light house by Deering himself since he was not given one are historically significant. We started at the Boast Basin a beautiful dock perfect to land with your boat and a hot spot for manatees to mate. It is incredible how nature can flourish anywhere. The Deering Estate consists of eight different ecosystems coming all together in one place, creating a mesmerizing sight to behold. makes it more fascinating to see it all come together, the Mangroves along with the Tequesta Burial Mound and Cutler Fossil site and Miami Rock Ridge are one of the oldest geological formations that existed for over 10,000 years. We were able to see the tools the Tequesta used to crave, these people were a community that lived on Deering Estate. However, there is not much proof of their existence except what the Tequesta midden has revealed, such as their tools in the mangrove wetland that were used for daily tasks or the burial mound of the Tequesta, a graveyard or rather hill with their buried bodies.
This place was nothing of what I expected, from jumping into Solution Holes to standing under the Cutler Creek Bridge and connecting with the death of the natives that built the history of this beautiful nature, I cannot emphasize enough how beautiful nature and history can be especially when it comes together to tell a fascinating story.
Vizcaya as Text
“A sanctuary of pleasure”
By Melis Gercek of FIU at Vizcaya Museum& Gardens“A sanctuary of pleasure” by Melis Gercek of FIU at Vizcaya Musem & Gardens on February 18th, 2022
Vizcaya Museum & Gardens || All photos taken by Melis Gercek (CC by 4.0)
James Deering did not take no for an answer: “If I cannot be in Europe, I am bringing Europe to me” kind of motto is what I perceived from visiting his mansion. His impressive desire of bringing European and more specifically Spanish and Italian and French architecture down to Miami, which at that time was not Miami, building a villa with a four times bigger garden with its own maze, fountain, love corner, and a step away from the ocean, sculptures, and paintings of things he just simply liked and wanted to possess in his “humble aboard”. It is impressive how a human being can take whatever they desire, with crossing many societal restrictions and regulations and simply following your needs. If James wanted an Arc the Triomphe in the walkway to the main entrance he made sure to get one regardless of earning the right to build one with no victory and with that he simply built not just one but two own small versions of an Arc the Triomphe. He had his own rules and made his villa a house of worshipping the party life, smoking, drinking, nudity mostly pronounced male nudity contained in sculptures and paintings led to rumors that questioned his sexuality. From bedrooms with secret entrances to the master bedroom, a love bench in his garden up to a sculpture in the entrance of the God of wine and ecstasy Dionysus, James brought out the concept of pleasure and fun in his property.
A beautiful atrium in his house with no windows but simply the beautiful ocean breeze and sun-rays shining perfectly in a beautiful, flowered atrium with caravels on each compass brought the passion of nature out in him. The details of each sculpture, ceiling and painting are what makes his mansion so special. Such as the writing “J’ai Dit” up when walking the staircase to the bedrooms, he simply wanted visitors to receive the message that he actually “[I have] has spoken”. There was nothing stopping him from having the dream house of pleasure, his kind of sanctuary.
Miami as Text
“Founded by a woman”
By Melis E. Gercek of FIU at Downtown Miami on March 11th, 2022
Miami Downtown || All photos taken by Melis Gercek (CC by 4.0)
Our city comes with a history that is not enough taught to locals. What I mean by that is that this city evolved from the Tequesta, Seminoles, Bahamians, escaped slaves and Northern Settlers but their remains and traces are left scattered, buried, lost, or simply hidden. It was a massive achievement considering women did not have suffrage that Julia Tuttle was the only woman who founded a city in the US. From a dropped bowl of oranges with its scattered slices and peels, symbolizing the chaos of Miami up to Lummus Park, Miami downtown has a lot of meaningful artworks or historical remains. The oranges are representing Florida, known for its oranges and the scattered slices and peels are described as the chaos in Miami, which can be interpreted in many ways such as the diversity of people and culture, the traffic, its history and many more features that make Miami to Miami. The Lummus Park holds the oldest known house in Miami which once belonged to a German immigrant William Wagner. He was married to a French-Creole immigrant and had children of color with her that faced discrimination back in the 1850s. Wagner was known for inviting hungry Seminoles to his humble abode having a feast with them and thus leading to a beautiful friendship with the Seminoles. He became the mediator between the Northern Settlers and the Seminoles.
A very ironic part of Miami is the courthouse, or rather “The Dade County Courthouse”, Dade was named after Major Francis Langhorne Dade, who was a senior commander who sent out troops during the genocide against indigenous people of this land who were led to an ambush. Even though defeated, his name made it to Miami Dade County. The courthouse, however, has a monument of Henry Flagler who has brought good and bad to Miami, such as railroads but also segregation in Miami.
I am proud to say that I stood on Miami’s Kilometer Zero, the intersection of Miami Avenue and Flagler Streets where the four cardinal points begin from that where it divides the city of Miami into four quadrants. Having had the opportunity of listening to Miami’s history from a priest of the Gesu Church was also a lucky experience, him mentioning indigenous people and the Tequesta and the Spanish. And finally, the Freedom Tower, a building that processed Cuban immigrants. It became the Ellis Island of Cuban immigrants and changed the course of history of Miami. Even today, grandparents of my peers have been processed in this building back in the late 1960s. The architecture of this building is also remarkable, with is Mediterranean Revival which was inspired by the Giralda Tower in Seville, Spain. All these landmarks represent different perspectives of Miami and how much it has evolved.
SOBE as Text
“Eyebrows”
By Melis E. Gercek of FIU on April 1st, 2022
Miami South Beach || All photos taken by Melis Gercek (CC by 4.0)
What would Miami Beach be known for if it was not for the beach you would think?
Discovering that the very own Beach in Miami is not natural is very controversial. I find it more appropriate to call it Miami Mangroves, because this is what mainly kept our land to the ground. Thanks to the Bahamian sand that is being imported annually, we have a beach as we know it now.
South Beach, or rather known as Ocean Beach back in the 18th and 19th century, has been through a metamorphosis. Carl Fisher decided to come down to Miami and start a project with South Beach and Brickell as we know it today. He saw potential between the swamp and all those mangroves, and created a nice place to resort, a vacation destination. He did some business in offering to pay finishing the bridge in return for some land and arranges Bahamians to cut all the mangroves. However, not thinking it through, by cutting the mangroves that part of the land simply washed away, and it led to the demand of importing sand from other places. Fisher ensured his name to be remembered by naming an island after him, known as Fisher Island, which is now occupied by houses worth millions.
Notwithstanding, what makes Miami so unique is its remarkable architecture. From Mediterranean revival, which is a predominant style here in Miami, to MiMo (Miami Modernist) and Art deco (Decorative Arts). Each style distinguishable from their features: Mediterranean revival architecture is characterized by their red tiled roofs, windows in shape of arches or circles and articulated door surrounds; MiMo’s features include extreme curves in their buildings for the purpose of resembling boats and rockets such as a cruise ship like building with lots of windows; however, the most recognizable buildings in south beach are Art deco with their characteristics of taking steel and iron and making them look like nature. These buildings bring out the ocean, and nature very well. These buildings are also very known for their so called “eyebrows” which look like balconies above and under each window or corner but serving the purpose of shade and protection from sun and not actual balconies. Ocean drive, the most known street in south beach consists mostly of Art Deco buildings with their eyebrows, three dots in the middle and very symmetrical characters.
If we were to live in the 90s, you could go to the News Café on Ocean drive, buy a newspaper from all over the world with the latest sport update only past a week and sipping from your huge cup of coffee. Their purpose was to make their customers sit down, drink their coffee, and spend hours reading and enjoying the café’s ambience. It made not just locals and tourists want to stay forever but was also very known for celebrities.
melis.gercek@icloud.com
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Miami in Miami 
